{"id":71848,"date":"2024-06-13T05:57:05","date_gmt":"2024-06-13T05:57:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/2024\/06\/13\/montana-has-more-cows-than-people-why-are-locals-eating-beef-from-brazil\/"},"modified":"2024-06-13T05:57:05","modified_gmt":"2024-06-13T05:57:05","slug":"montana-has-more-cows-than-people-why-are-locals-eating-beef-from-brazil","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/2024\/06\/13\/montana-has-more-cows-than-people-why-are-locals-eating-beef-from-brazil\/","title":{"rendered":"Montana Has More Cows Than People. Why Are Locals Eating Beef From Brazil?"},"content":{"rendered":"<div style=\"text-align:center\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1050\" height=\"550\" src=\"https:\/\/i3.wp.com\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2024\/05\/21\/multimedia\/00Making-It-Work-Montana-Beef-01-mlhq\/00Making-It-Work-Montana-Beef-01-mlhq-facebookJumbo.jpg?resize=1050,550&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"attachment-post-thumbnail size-post-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"Montana Has More Cows Than People. Why Are Locals Eating Beef From Brazil?\" title=\"Montana Has More Cows Than People. Why Are Locals Eating Beef From Brazil?\" \/><\/div><p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\"><em class=\"css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0\">\u201cMaking It Work\u201d is a series is about small-business owners striving to endure hard times.<\/em><\/p>\n<hr class=\"css-7ad88g e1mu4ftr0\"\/>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">While many people can conjure up romantic visions of a Montana ranch \u2014 vast valleys, cold streams, snow-capped mountains \u2014 few understand what happens when the cattle leave those pastures. Most of them, it turns out, don\u2019t stay in Montana.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Even here, in a state with nearly <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nass.usda.gov\/Statistics_by_State\/Wyoming\/Publications\/News_Releases\/2024\/WY-Cattle-Inventory-01312024.pdf\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">twice as many cows<\/a> as people, only around 1 percent of the beef purchased by Montana households is raised and processed locally, according to estimates from <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/growmt.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Economic-Impact-of-Local-Foods-8.5-%C3%97-11-in-1-combined.pdf\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Highland Economics<\/a>, a consulting firm. As is true in the rest of the country, many Montanans instead eat beef from <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ers.usda.gov\/data-products\/chart-gallery\/gallery\/chart-detail\/?chartId=108620#\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">as far away as Brazil<\/a>. <\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Here\u2019s a common fate of a cow that starts out on Montana grass: It will be bought by one of the four dominant meatpackers \u2014 JBS, Tyson Foods, Cargill and Marfrig \u2014 which process <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ers.usda.gov\/amber-waves\/2024\/january\/concentration-in-u-s-meatpacking-industry-and-how-it-affects-competition-and-cattle-prices\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">85 percent<\/a> of the country\u2019s beef; transported by a company like Sysco or US Foods, distributors with a combined value of over $50 billion; and sold at a Walmart or Costco, which together take in <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.foodandwaterwatch.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/IB_2111_FoodMonoSeries1-SUPERMARKETS-V2FINAL.pdf\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">roughly half of America\u2019s food dollars<\/a>. Any ranchers who want to break out from this system \u2014 and, say, sell their beef locally, instead of as anonymous commodities crisscrossing the country \u2014 are Davids in a swarm of Goliaths.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cThe beef packers have a lot of control,\u201d said <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.umt.edu\/environmental-studies\/people\/default.php?ID=733\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Neva Hassanein<\/a>, a University of Montana professor who studies sustainable food systems. \u201cThey tend to influence a tremendous amount throughout the supply chain.\u201d For the nation\u2019s ranchers, whose profits have <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2021\/12\/27\/business\/beef-prices-cattle-ranchers.html\" title=\"\">shrunk over time<\/a>, she said, \u201cIt\u2019s kind of a trap.\u201d <\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Cole Mannix is trying to escape that trap.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Mr. Mannix, 40, has a tendency to wax philosophical. (He once thought about becoming a Jesuit priest.) Like members of his family have since 1882, he grew up ranching: baling hay, helping to birth calves, guiding cattle into the high country on horseback. He wants to make sure the next generation, the sixth, has the same opportunity.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">So, in 2021, Mr. Mannix co-founded <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.oldsaltco-op.com\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Old Salt Co-op<\/a>, a company that aims to upend the way people buy meat.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">While many Montana ranchers sell their calves into the multibillion-dollar industrial machine when they\u2019re less than a year old, never to see or profit from them again, Old Salt\u2019s livestock never leave the company\u2019s hands. The cattle are raised by Old Salt\u2019s four member ranches, slaughtered and processed at its meatpacking facility, and sold through its ranch-to-table restaurants, community events and website. The ranchers, who have ownership in the company, profit at every stage.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">The technical term for this approach \u2014 in which a company controls various elements of its supply chain \u2014 is <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.investopedia.com\/terms\/v\/verticalintegration.asp\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">vertical integration<\/a>. It\u2019s not something many small meat businesses try, as it requires a huge amount of upfront capital.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cIt\u2019s a scary time,\u201d Mr. Mannix said, referring to the company\u2019s sizable debt. \u201cWe\u2019re really trying to invent something new.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">But, he added, \u201cNo matter how risky it is to start a business like Old Salt, the status quo is riskier.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">It would have been much simpler for Old Salt to open just a meat processing facility, <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.hcn.org\/issues\/55-11\/food-what-montanas-independent-ranchers-need-to-survive-customers\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">as some ranchers have<\/a>, and not bother with restaurants and events. (In fact, that\u2019s where much of the national attention has focused: The White House recently committed <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.whitehouse.gov\/briefing-room\/statements-releases\/2022\/01\/03\/fact-sheet-the-biden-harris-action-plan-for-a-fairer-more-competitive-and-more-resilient-meat-and-poultry-supply-chain\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">$1 billion<\/a> to independent meat processors, citing the major meatpackers\u2019 lack of competition.)<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">But Mr. Mannix said that would not have addressed the other issue that ranchers face: difficulty accessing distributors and customers. \u201cIt doesn\u2019t matter if you have a nice processing facility if you can\u2019t sell the product,\u201d he said. \u201cYou can\u2019t rebuild the food system by just throwing a bunch of money at one component of that food system.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Old Salt is his attempt to rebuild the whole darn thing.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">And people are taking notice. \u201cOld Salt is a beacon,\u201d said Robin Kelson, executive director of <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/abundantmontana.com\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Abundant Montana<\/a>, a nonprofit organization promoting local food. \u201cThey are showing the rest of us that by stacking enterprises, by collaborating in creative ways, it is possible to make the system work.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">On a recent Saturday, downtown Helena\u2019s newest restaurant, the Union, was buzzing. A wood-fired grill sizzled as diners ate steaks and short ribs; up front, a butcher case gleamed with bacon and breakfast sausages. All of it came from Old Salt\u2019s member ranches.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">This restaurant-slash-butchery is Old Salt\u2019s latest venture. It joins the Outpost, a burger stand inside a 117-year-old bar, and the <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.oldsaltco-op.com\/pages\/old-salt-festival-2024\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Old Salt Festival<\/a>, a food- and music-filled celebration of sustainable agriculture at the Mannix ranch in late June, now in its second year. That\u2019s in addition to the company\u2019s meat processing facility and subscription meat program.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Andrew Mace, Old Salt\u2019s co-founder and culinary director, probably wouldn\u2019t recommend starting five businesses in three years. But he said this was all part of the company\u2019s \u201cvery ambitious plan to reimagine the local meat economy.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">While Mr. Mace wants all of Old Salt\u2019s outfits to turn a profit, their greater purpose is serving as marketing vehicles for the <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.oldsaltco-op.com\/collections\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">meat subscription service<\/a>: for diners to fall in love with the Union\u2019s rib-eye, and then sign up to get the company\u2019s \u201csteak and chop bundle\u201d delivered every month.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">In the next five years, Old Salt\u2019s goal is to sell meat to 10,000 families annually, up from around 800 now. It won\u2019t be easy: Americans are used to purchasing ground chuck from the grocery store, not from a website.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cIt just takes a lot to pry into people\u2019s spending habits,\u201d Mr. Mace said, \u201cand get them to understand that you\u2019re not just buying meat, you\u2019re investing in local landscapes.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">That matters to Mr. Mannix. He handpicked Old Salt\u2019s members from <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nass.usda.gov\/Publications\/AgCensus\/2022\/Full_Report\/Volume_1,_Chapter_1_State_Level\/Montana\/st30_1_011_012.pdf\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">more than 9,000<\/a> ranches across the state because they share his dedication to <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2021\/02\/17\/climate\/regenerative-grazing-cattle-climate.html\" title=\"\">regenerative ranching<\/a>, a set of principles that seeks to replenish soils and <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fs.usda.gov\/pnw\/pubs\/journals\/pnw_2020_gosnell001.pdf\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">lessen cattle\u2019s environmental impact<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">His overarching goal is putting more money into these ranchers\u2019 hands so they can put more time and money into stewarding their lands. (Altogether, Old Salt\u2019s ranches manage more than 200,000 acres, a parcel larger than Shenandoah National Park.)<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">That\u2019s why Old Salt\u2019s ranchers own the majority of the company and share in the profits. \u201cWe didn\u2019t want to be a meat company that buys livestock from ranchers and, ultimately, as it grows, has an incentive to pay as little as it can for those livestock,\u201d Mr. Mannix said. \u201cThat leaves less money to pay for the time that it takes to really care for ecosystems.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Uniting four ranches under one brand has also allowed the members to pool their products and marketing resources, rather than compete against one another.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cIt takes some boldness to do what they are doing, but we need people out front like that to show the way,\u201d said Dr. Hassanein, the University of Montana professor. Though it may seem ironic, given that beef production accounts for nearly <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nature.com\/articles\/s43016-021-00358-x\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">9 percent<\/a> of global greenhouse gas emissions, she said she supported these ranches precisely because she cares about wildlife and the environment.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cThese are well-known ranches; many of them are award-winning conservationists,\u201d Dr. Hassanein said. \u201cIf they can\u2019t survive economically, then we really have to ask ourselves what\u2019s going to come in their place.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">That\u2019s a question many of Old Salt\u2019s ranchers, who are navigating both economic and environmental pressures, have been asking too. As <a class=\"css-yywogo\" href=\"https:\/\/www.siebenlivestock.com\/\" title=\"\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Cooper Hibbard<\/a>, a fifth-generation rancher and president of Old Salt\u2019s board, put it, \u201cIt\u2019s clear from all angles that we can\u2019t keep doing what we\u2019ve been doing, otherwise we won\u2019t have a ranch to pass off to the next generation.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cWe\u2019re trying to chart a new model,\u201d he said. \u201cWe\u2019re really swinging for the fences.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"\/><\/div>\n<p><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2024\/06\/13\/business\/montana-meat-old-salt-co-op.html\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cMaking It Work\u201d is a series is about small-business owners striving to endure hard times. While many people can conjure up romantic visions of a Montana ranch \u2014 vast valleys, cold streams, snow-capped mountains \u2014 few understand what happens when the cattle leave those pastures. Most of them, it turns out, don\u2019t stay in Montana. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":71849,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","fifu_image_url":"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2024\/05\/21\/multimedia\/00Making-It-Work-Montana-Beef-01-mlhq\/00Making-It-Work-Montana-Beef-01-mlhq-facebookJumbo.jpg","fifu_image_alt":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[45721,2185,5839,6508,8382,66259,124],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/71848"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=71848"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/71848\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":71850,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/71848\/revisions\/71850"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/71849"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=71848"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=71848"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.talkwithrattan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=71848"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}